The morning light streamed into the hotel dining room windows as fellows found their way to long tables covered with bamboo table setting mats. As we gathered, we shared our excitement to explore Vientiane while enjoying a gourmet meal.
At 8:20am sharp we gathered in the lobby to board the bus and learn more from our guide Mr. Siphone about what the day would hold. We learned that Vientiane is not only the capitol of Laos, but also the largest and most populous city in the country with 900,000 Lao people calling it home. Laos has roots to what was once the largest kingdom in Southeast Asia, united as Lan Xang – land of the million elephants – between the 13th and 18th centuries. Shortly after this era, Laos became a French protectorate which is reflective in its architecture, culture, and language (Vientiane is the French pronunciation of the Lao Viangchan).
During the 20th century, various foreign powers controlled Laos and the surrounding regions, bringing war and conflict with them. Today, the Laos People’s Democratic Republic has the lowest GDP per capita when compared to its neighbors and is also the most bombed country in the world.
Our first stop for the day was Ho Phra Keo, once the home to the Emerald Buddha. Built in the 1560s by King Setthathirath, the temple is no longer active and today serves as a museum that houses religious artifacts. Over 200 years after the temple was originally constructed the Kingdom of Siam invaded Laos, removing the Emerald Buddha and placing it in Bangkok, Thailand where it is housed today.
Class 53 explored the grounds of the Ho Phra Keo temple as we considered the resilience of the Lao people.
As he shared this story, Mr. Siphone chuckled while he added the Laos people now see its absence as a stroke of luck, fearing that bringing the Buddha back to Vientiane would disrupt the current state of peace Laos currently enjoys.
As we ascended the steps to the top of the Temple, we reflected on the resilience of the Laos people through many foreign occupations, many of which targeted Buddhism and their way of life. Mr. Siphone invited us to remove our shoes and step inside the Temple turned museum to observe the religious artifacts. As we toured, we learned more about the stoupa, an exaggerated cone-like figure that adorns Buddha’s head and is prolific in Lao architecture.
Stoupa monuments are abundant throughout Laos and often hold the remaining ashes of individuals that have passed and are reverent sites. Furthermore, the shape itself represents that while many enter into a Buddhist lifestyle (the base of the Stoupa), few maintain their journey for life (the narrowing top). We also learned the significance of yellow flowers when offered as alms at local temples. This gesture reflects one’s renunciation of selfish ambition and when dry, signifying the impermanence of life. In our final moments at the temple, we marinated in these ideas, setting the tone for the rest of our day.
The local Lao people offer marigolds to symbolize their renunciation of self and the fragility of life
At the completion of our tour, we navigated across the street and entered Wat Sisaket Temple, an active Buddist Monastery that serves as home to 47 monks. This temple is the only one to survive the many invasions of foreign powers in Vientiane. There, we learned about the five basic components of a temple: (1) The Sima, or ordination hall, (2) the Drum tower, used to notify the local village of important information, (3) the Stoupa, (4) the Hotai, or monk’s living quarters, and (5) the Tipitaka, or library where Buddhist written literature and scrolls are stored. As we toured the grounds, Mr. Siphone explained seven positions of Buddha, one representing each day of the week. The position that most resonated with us was Sunday Buddha (Pang Thawai Net) where Buddha is standing with his hands palms down and the right hand overlapping the left. This position is a reflection of gratitude, a mindset that is present in each of us as we consider the incredible gift bestowed upon us as we travel to Southeast Asia, learn from the people here and experience these countries as part of our leadership journey.
The position or posture of Thursday Buddha (far left) represents a mindset of gratitude.
Our next stop was Patuxay or the Victory Monument in downtown Vientiane. Completed in 1968, the monument stands seven stories tall and commemorates the day Laos gained independence from France. As we climbed the steps to the top of the monument, we considered the architecture of the structure with the five towers representing the Buddhist principles: thoughtful, amiability, flexibility, honesty, honor and prosperity. At the top, we enjoyed 360 degree views of the city and considered the many aspects that define Laos, differentiating the region from both Vietnam and Cambodia.
After descending from the monument, we once again loaded the bus and navigated to Pha That Luang, widely accepted as the most significant national monument in Laos. This stoupa is believed to be constructed as early as 3 A.D., having undergone many reconstructions as a result of foreign invasions. It is believed to entomb a part of the Buddha and contains many artifacts and relics from Laos’s history and culture.
Class 53 marveled at the grandeur of the Pha That Luang temple.
It was here that we learned about the lifestyle for a Buddhist monk, as explained to us by Mr. Siphone who served as a monk for nine years prior to completing his education and becoming a tour guide. Characterized by discipline and restraint, a monk maintains a simple lifestyle, dependent on the community to give alms to keep hunger at bay. As we learned more, we considered our own priorities and explored our own satisfaction in life and reliance on material items. The humid air and hot temperatures that surrounded us as we toured the monument increased our awareness of the very comfortable life we live back at home. With this question rolling around in our minds, we broke for lunch at a local restaurant.
Following a flavor-filled Laotian lunch, we traveled to the Cope Visitor Center, a non-profit organization dedicated to eliminating the Laos countryside of Unexploded Ordinances (UXOs) remaining from the Secret War and Vietnam War that continue to terrorize communities today.
Between 1964 and 1973, the U.S. dropped two million tons of explosives on Laos. Roughly 30% of which did not explode on impact and now riddle the Laos countryside, just waiting for the smallest impact to trigger an explosion. Despite it being illegal, many villagers – especially children – will collect the metal from these devices to sell as scrap, bringing much needed income to impoverished communities. Yet – many of these devices remain active and will often explode, bringing destruction to all those nearby.
Class 53 fellows consider the long-lasting impact of the bombing campaigns from the Vietnam War and Secret War in Laos. Today, roughly 12,000 Laotian lives are lost annually as a result of UXOs. This is horrifying to us.
We learned about how their work brings vital support to survivors, helping them regain mobility with prosthetic and orthotic care. Additionally, their goal is to educate the local communities of the dangers of UXOs. The center’s work is a testament to resilience and community-driven support, serving as a reminder of the impact of compassionate leadership.
Our time here has called to us to DO something. If not us, then who?
Access to prosthetic legs can change the life trajectory for those injured by an accidental UXO explosion.
The evening allowed us a lighter moment to explore Vientiane’s vibrant night market, filled with stalls selling handcrafted items, textiles, and local delicacies. Walking through the market was a chance to experience the daily life and spirit of the Laotian people, bringing a joyful close to a day of cultural exploration and thoughtful reflection.
With gratitude,
Manny, Michelle, Kurt and Class 53
