Day 11: The Simple, Purpose-Filled Life

It was 6am and the fellows – still rubbing sleep from our eyes – shuffled into the lobby of our Luang Prabang hotel. We quietly and efficiently climbed into three shuttle vans, filled with a contemplative spirit and excitement to be part of a centuries-old tradition that exemplifies the spirit of the Laos culture, people, and history. We were on our way to participate in a daily alms giving to Buddhist monks, a practice in Luang Probang that harkens back to the 14th century when the city originally became the capital of the kingdom that now is represented by modern day Laos. Today, Luang Prabang is the last place in the world to still practice almsgiving on a daily basis.

The ritual of daily almsgiving is something we often see in photos or perhaps an issue of National Geographic, but not many have had the opportunity to be present in the ritual firsthand. With the sun still rising before us, we sat on small stools, shoes removed and a sash adorning our shoulders, ready to distribute a morning gift of sticky rice and chocolates to roughly 100 monks. Prior to their arrival, we learned how to show respect and honor a culture different from our own. As we saw the monks appear into view, several of us spoke with hushed excitement, comparing the march to a parade of sorts.

It was not long until the temple boys, novices, and monks were standing before us, ranging in ages from 6 to adult. We cautiously rationed our sticky rice to ensure we had enough to share with everyone, making sure the youngest received the special chocolates, as instructed by our guide Ken.

We left this experience with a humbled perspective for a variety of reasons – it was interesting that something so simple as sticky rice could be the item that was shared as commonplace across many different people groups. We also considered how each of us could come together to honor and respect each other and share an aspect of humanity, regardless of your chosen religion.

After stopping by the hotel to freshen up and enjoy breakfast in the open-air dining room, we headed out to the Lao Buffalo Dairy. Nestled in the hills surrounding Luang Prabang, this farm is the self-described “mid-life crises” of two foreign born women, Rachel and Sussie. In our conversations with these inspirational women, we came to understand they developed an innovative system to rent lactating Buffalo from local farmers and pay them according to the excess milk produced. Revenues are generated through tours to the public and sale of Buffalo cheeses, ice cream and dairy-based desserts.

Interestingly enough, milk is relatively uncommon in Laos, despite the abundance of water buffalo and goats wandering freely along the sides of most streets. In fact, milk products are so foreign to most Lao people that, when asked, they typically don’t know where it comes from.

As Rachel and Sussie shared their story, it became clear that the farm is not just a second career, it is a labor of love, an investment in the Lao people that gives so much more back to them than monetary profits. 

Funded by the ticket sales from tours and the dairy products made from buffalo milk, the farm also hosts free English classes for children, which is very popular among the local villages. Not only this, but customized farmer-training programs are also made available to the local villagers, providing much-needed training on modern animal husbandry practices. While it took years to build credibility, the local communities today are very supportive of the farm, seeing them as a resource to improve the health of their animals and generate additional revenue sources.

As our time drew to an end, we piled into our vans and pulled out from the rocky driveway of the Lao Dairy. The stories that Rachel and Sussie shared with us resonated in our hearts as we considered the positive impact they are having on the people they live, work, and laugh with. Our conversations swirled around various themes of how we, too, could have an impact by using our time, talent and treasures to invest in those around us.

Within 20 minutes, we arrived at the Kuang Si Waterfall – an incredible multi-kilometer long series of waterfalls. As we meandered through the dense jungle pathway, we followed the river, passing a bear sanctuary on the way that serves as home to exotic animals now living a peaceful life safe from predators and poachers. 

We found a calm spot to jump into the cool water, splashing around in the milky turquoise pool and diving under a section of the waterfall to a hidden cave. It was a spiritual experience, to fully immerse in the natural beauty of this mystical land. In many ways, the falls reflect the heart of the Laos people, calm and inviting, consistent in its beauty despite the many turns and turbulence in its path. After drying off, we explored the waterfall more and then headed down to lunch at a local restaurant, grateful to the Lao people for sharing their national treasures with us.

In the afternoon, we traveled back towards Luang Prabang to visit Ban Xieng Lek, a nearby village whose primary trade is making Sa Paper. The process begins with striping the bark from a Sa – or Mulberry – tree, soaking it overnight and then boiling it for 6 hours in order for a pulp to form. When cooled, the pulp is spread over a screen, decorated with flowers plucked from an obliging vine and set in the sun to dry. The villagers instruct their children, generation after generation, and the process is deeply embedded in the people’s way of life.

Our evening concluded with a meal walking distance from the hotel. As we ate, there was an undercurrent of bittersweet reflection in our conversation as our time in South East Asia nears an end. With three countries, five cities, five flights, two boat rides and one train ride behind us, we each have used this time in Luang Prabaung to consider the lessons and inspiration of the Lao people. We look forward to tomorrow, when we will join together for our final synthesis and reflect on all our experiences in this complex land.

With gratitude,

Jack, Katie, Michelle and Class 53